Hanoi by Motorbike

In a city overflowing with noise and energy, driving a motorbike through the tangled and crowded streets is by far the most intense way to experience Hanoi. As if mastering the basic mechanics of acceleration, braking, and balance aren't enough, you have to be able to operate your bike in a crush of other bikes, each of which is controlled by a driver who is much more experienced, aggressive, and reckless than you are.

Rush hour is the WORST. You inch along in a flood of bikes, oftentimes navigating around SUVs which act as plugs in the narrow streets. The noise of honking and broken mufflers surrounds you. Regardless of the weather, it's hot as you sit in the crowd, because exhaust is pouring out of every bike, meaning you're inhaling a cloud of fumes, smoke, and grime at every stop light. Because maneuvering a bike is hardest when you're going slow, you teeter each time you have to slow down for a red light, or a stopped taxi, or some other unforeseen obstacle.

The three most valuable things I've learned about driving so far:

1. Drive in a state of constant anticipation and awareness. You can NEVER take your eyes off the road. Whoever is in front of you has the right of way, so if they cut you off or pull a u-turn right in front of you, it's your responsibility to avoid an accident. You need to be on constant watch for puddles, potholes, bicyclists, pedestrians, other motorbikes, cars, busses, and so on. They can come at you from any direction, at any time, without warning. Stimulating!

2. Don't assume anything. The "rules" of the road here are suggestions at best. You still need to look out for oncoming traffic when you're driving down a "one-way" street. Just because you have a green light at a busy intersection doesn't mean that cross-traffic is going to stop. There's really no such thing as right-of-way or yielding here. It comes down to something like a game of chicken - who has the bigger vehicle, who's more aggressive, who's more steadfast in their course. Needless to say, every time I make it to my destination I let out a little sigh of relief.

3. When in doubt, honk. Honking is pretty much constant here. It has more of a "heads-up" connotation here than at home, where honking usually communicates anger or irritation. If you're passing someone who is going slower than you, honk to let them know they better keep going straight rather than unexpectedly swerve to the side and crash into you. If someone is about to pull a u-turn in front of you and you don't plan on stopping, honk to let them know they better wait a minute. If you're coming to a blind corner and you have no idea what might be waiting for you on the other side, honk. If you run a red light, honk. If you think someone in front of you is about to do something crazy, honk. Pretty much plan on driving with your thumb on the horn at all times.

As crazy as it sounds, it's still great way to get around. Gas is cheap - I've probably only spent about $10 on gas since I've been here. And if you can avoid rush hour, it's actually quite nice to take a leisurely drive around the city. I love driving home from my late nights at work - 10pm and there are very few other bikes on the road, so I can cruise home and have a nice breeze blow away the heat of the day. Driving in monsoon rain is another story...